Burda 7198


So, what do you do when you have a rare 4-day weekend but your highly anticipated pool time gets rained out? Sew a shirt, I guess!  This pattern seemed to be a pretty versatile, casual style that could work well with various prints.  Also, in the summer I like to have the option of layers without resorting to a coat.

The pattern is Burda 7198 and made from a cotton voile which is perfect. The fabric is from Amy Butler’s Soul Blossoms line. What wonderful fabric! It made the cheap voile I used for my muslin feel like burlap! Granted, it was 3 times the cost on sale but it was so comfortable I bought more prints when my local shop had it 50% off (!)yesterday.


My first run was made from bright pink cotton voile I ordered on sale.  It was a great deal at 50% off (only $2.50/yard!) so I figured if it didn’t work, it was no more expensive than muslin and if it did work, I would have a second blouse.  I’m so glad I did a muslin – I made a few changes based on it and it helped me figure out how to do the placket.  I seem to have issues with plackets!

Changes I made:

  • I didn’t add the horizontal dart in the back.  It’s so strange.  It was across the upper back of the shirt and served no purpose except a weird design feature.  I didn’t know it was there until I looked at the pattern piece since it’s not on the line drawing.  Ignored on both the muslin and blouse.IMG_3022_edited-1web
  • Sizing – I fell between the pattern sizes 12 and 14 for the bust and 14 and 16 for waist and hip.  I made a 12 throughout.  It would have been huge if I followed their sizing!
  • Removed the center back seam on the final blouse.  It probably would be useful for fitting if you need it but since it was a straight line I just subtracted the seam allowance and cut it on the fold – no need to match the print that way!  Also, with the relatively sheer fabrics I was using, the seam was very obvious.  So much so that even though my pink version fits, I don’t know that I’ll wear it.
  • Shortened the upper portion of the blouse 1.5”.  This pattern has an upper and lower shorten/lengthen line which was so helpful.  My measurements indicated 2” but I thought that was too much.  In hindsight I should have only raised it about 3/4”. I think the top’s proportions look a bit off.
  • I debated whether to add the godets on the side for the 2nd version.  I ended up keeping them because they give some shape even if they do stick out a bit.

The neckline finish is a bit odd but looks nice from the outside (especially on solid colors).  The bias piece isn’t a binding in the traditional sense.  Rather, it basically covers the folded down raw edges of the neck on the bottom and adds a design feature at the top.  You’re covering the seam more than enclosing it.  That’s assuming I did it correctly. I wonder if I did it wrong because I don’t see how this little strip of fabric will prevent the neckline from fraying – it’s still somewhat exposed underneath. I wonder if I was supposed to put it under the folded neckline. Even if not, I think I’ll try that next time.


All in all, I like it and may make another version down the road since it’s such a versatile style.  My only issue besides raising the waist too much are the seven buttonholes.  My machine does a crap job.  I did multiple practice button holes but on the first ‘real’ one the machine got stuck and sewed a huge knot/ball of thread and pulled a hole in the fabric.  It was impossible to remove the thread without making the hole bigger. As it is, I’m hoping some fray check with prevent the hole from getting worse.  The rest went in fine but look lame –the second side is half as dense as the first.  It’s so bad that in the future I’ll probably find a local tailor and see if they can sew my buttonholes.  You can see below the one on the right where there’s a hole over a big thread knot and the normal buttonhole on the left where one side is good and the other is no more than a zig zag stitch.


Next time I may narrow the sleeves a bit.  IMG_3016_edited-1web

Looks like today may be rained out again. What’s next? I made a bodice muslin for a maxi dress last week but have been hesitant to start the project since the challis I’m using needs a lining.  I have no clue how to insert one with a side zipper and tank style.  Maybe I’ll try a little knit dress.  I need some of those and no lining needed.

Enjoy the rest of your weekend!


About girlguydogcat

Living in the midwest, wife to a fantastic husband, mom/servant to two cats and a dog.

7 responses »

  1. I think it looks really nice and you don’t really notice the buttonholes from a distance anyway.

    I have been shying away from buttonholes, however I bought a vintage Singer buttonholer (you can use them on modern machines provided you get the right one) in the hope of conquering that fear, but it has just been sitting there since I got it.

    • Thanks! Buttonholes can be intimidating! If they get messed up there’s rarely a solution to fix them. But fortunately, at least in this case, the print covers up the goof. It’s not noticeable unless you’re way too close! I’m just hoping the hole doesn’t get bigger.
      Give yours a try. Imagine how many options it opens up for you!

  2. I just started this pattern and a friend pointed me to your blog when I questioned the bizarre horizontal back dart I love yours, I hope you got lots of wear out of it!

    • Thanks! I did get lots of use out of over the summer. I’m pretty sure I totally flubbed up the bias binding on the neckline but it hasn’t frayed to bits so it’s ok. Hopefully I can figure it out for another version I’ll make this spring. Look forward to seeing yours!

  3. Hi there – I’m half way through this pattern, and when I got to the neckline binding, I had to look it up, because it just seems so odd. I found you! So, it looks good in your picture. But am I right in thinking that neither edge of the binding is finished? Just raw edges? I mean I have seen that design feature on some clothing, and it works out ok, and is kind of cute, but I want to be sure that I”m doing it correctly. I see your posts are a few years old, so I won’t be surprised if you don’t answer; just taking a shot! Thanks!


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