Category Archives: Sewing

Hey, is Anybody There?

Nope this page isn’t defunct though you wouldn’t be blamed for thinking that.  I can’t believe it’s been over eight months since I posted!  It certainly didn’t feel like that long but my home page doesn’t lie. Time sure got away from me!  Fall is always a crazy time for work and this year I had a lot more travel.  I did sew a few things this summer but lost the motivation to go through the hassle of photographing myself (I still dread that part).

However, every time I think about making a pattern I scour the internet to see what I can learn from other’s reviews. I feel like when I’ve finished something I should share my thoughts too.  I know I appreciate those posts that are honest and real. I also refer back to my own posts when making a garment again – they remind me of any sizing or construction issues and I like having a visual record of what I make.

So this is going to be a catch-up post.  I completed several garments over the summer and want to share them even if I did take the all the photos on my dressform.  Here are the cliff notes reviews:

New Look 6303 / S0599

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This is probably my favorite garment from this summer and fall.  It looks the most like a ready to wear garment I would buy.  In fact, after I cut the fabric, I realized I had bought almost the exact blouse from Nordstrom a few months earlier. No wonder I liked it!  You can’t see it here but I sewed the version with the draped front and longer shirt tail hem in the back. 

  • The blouse is more drapey and not as blocky looking as it looks above.  The dress form was at a strange angle.
  • Very easy to make. 
  • Even though tacked, the front can flap open so needs a camisole underneath.
  • It’s wearable but just a bit too short so when I cut a second version (still not sewn), I added length to the front and back.

Sewaholic Saltspring

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I guess I did take a photo of my blue Saltspring back in July! Some notes:

  • Size 8 throughout.  Measurements indicate size 10 in bodice and 8 in skirt.
  • Blue version is a linen.  This fabric is good and bad: it’s opaque enough to not require lining but can be thick through the gathers. I also left off the pockets to reduce bulk.
  • The print version is a rayon challis and is fantastic.  It’s so much more light and airy.  I lined the bodice in ambiance rayon.  I chose not to line the skirt but will need a slip.  Adding a lining as per the Sewaholic sew-along would result in two layers with gathers adding thickness around the waist.
  • Left off the zipper.  There are a couple steps needed if you want to eliminate the zipper.  As far as I could figure out, between steps 8 and 9, sew the back seam of the bodice lining then sew the back seam of the bodice outer fabric before attaching it to the skirt. Between steps 13 and 14, leave a 2” hole when topstitching to feed the elastic through the casing.

Sewaholic Belcarra

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This is a great basic blouse.  I made these to wear under blazers or cardigans for work.  Not much to say – I made the most basic version and didn’t even add the pocket.  I made a straight size 8.  Easy to make and very wearable.

Foxglove Tank

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I’ve been trying to find a pattern similar to ready-to-wear tanks I’ve bought.   This is a good basic tank with a high-low shape. It’s fitted through the chest and loose below.  I ended up making a ton of changes and at least three versions before I found one that worked well.

  • I love how Lauren set it up so you can select and print just the size you want.
  • Great instructions.
  • Definitely use a drapey fabric.  You can see the difference above.  The navy floral is linen (or a linen/rayon blend, I forget) and the chocolate and white dots is rayon challis.
  • Size eight as a base.  I cut both pieces on the fold.
  • I didn’t like the drastic difference between the front and back length for versions I’d wear with shorts.  I added 1.5 inches to front, shortened the back by 2 inches. I may add an inch back to the back, particularly if worn with jeans.
  • Scooped out the armhole to get more room.  It was a bit snug all throughout the back and chest and tight under the arms.  I didn’t want to mess with the racer back so I made the armhole bigger and added a 1/4 inch under each arm.  Maybe I could have gone up a size but there was no way I was reprinting and retaping another size.
  • Reduced the width at the bottom (I think 2 inches total – can’t remember). Probably not needed if your fabric has a lot of drape.
  • Even though I used the exact same pattern, the blue version has plenty of room in the arms, the brown version is tight through the arm/chest.  I think it’s because I used ready made bias binding for the brown and it doesn’t stretch much.  The blue version has self made linen bias tape which I believed stretched as I sewed it on.  It makes it hard to know whether I need to give myself more room next time around.
  • Once you have the pattern how you want, it’s a super fast make and a great pattern for fun prints!

New Look 6283

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This swimsuit cover-up is probably the least exciting but definitely got the most wear this summer.  It looks a bit tired in the photo above since I wore it every weekend and for hours every day on vacation.  It’s the perfect cover-up.  Loose but not a shapeless sack, full coverage but still cool and airy.  I’ll definitely make at least one more version since this gets washed so often.  I’ll probably add 2-3 inches next time since it seems to shrink over time even with pre-washing the fabric.  I’d definitely recommend this quick, easy pattern.

Hot Patterns Medina mini-kaftan

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It’s a free pattern from fabric.com which is fantastic.  This had so much potential but ended up as a fail.  Luckily I made it out of $3/yd fabric so no great loss.  It was voile I bought online and was disappointed to see how thin it was when it arrived. It worked for a cover-up, not for anything else. Couple notes:

  • Don’t accidentally chop off 6 inches instead of 3 like I did.  D’oh! No idea how I did that.  It’s so short, it’s un-wearable.  Well, assuming I want my rear covered… Anyone 5’3” or below want a cover-up?
  • The directions don’t walk you through every step or hand-hold.  You definitely need some experience before trying the pattern though the actual construction is not difficult at all.
  • The V section needs to be a opaque fabric or use thick interfacing.  Otherwise you’ll see the edges from underneath.  They have you fold down the edges of the contrast V, place it on the blouse and topstitch on.
  • Waistline is low – I’d raise it next time if I make it again.
  • It’s a cute, flattering style.

Well, I’m all caught up.  I really hope I get more opportunity to sew in the new year.  Maybe I’ll even post more often than every 8 months! 

Have a Happy Thanksgiving!

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Cuckoo for Coco

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The new Coco pattern from Tilly Walnes of Tilly and the Buttons has been popping up all over the internet.  I immediately thought it was adorable.  It was so basic, though,  I questioned whether it was worth purchasing.  As I saw more examples I realized it’s actually a perfect transitional piece and one that’s extremely wearable.  It’s longer and more polished than a t-shirt and can be worn year round.

I bought the pattern for the funnel neck which I think is a super cute retro look without being costumey.  When I went to make my versions, though, I was hesitant.  I was worried my fabric wasn’t quite right – too thick and wouldn’t hold a press.  It would look like I had a short, misshapen turtleneck.  Now that I’ve seen more versions online, I think I’ll try one with some navy ponte I have.

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My first version was made from a gray ponte from Joann.  This fabric is a poly/rayon blend.  It’s soft and comfortable with just a teeny bit of stretch.  It barely wrinkles and is extremely easy to sew, though I fear it will pill in an instant.  I used a triple straight stitch for the neckline and finishing the sleeves and hem. I sewed the sleeve and side seams on the serger. I made a size 4 throughout.

IMG_4579_edited-1web You can see it was a little too small through the high hip and rides up.  Or maybe I need a swayback adjustment?

IMG_4590_edited-1web Me in the middle of a turn and Ollie in the middle of squawking at me. We’re having all kinds of fun over here.

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My second version was made of a striped ponte from Fabricmart.  It has a slightly different texture and is thinner.   I sewed a size 4 through the bust, sleeves and waist then graded out to a size 5 to the hip.  This fabric has a bit more stretch so it turned out a bit too big.  It’s mostly fine from the front but looks a little like a tent from the side. With this fabric I should have stayed with the size 4.  I still have the pooling at the lower back so that area must need some sort of swayback adjustment. I used the triple straight stitch for the side split but used a double needle for the neckline, hem and sleeves.

IMG_4444_edited-1web IMG_4443_edited-1web Triple straight stitch on gray, double needle on striped.

Sewing the top is a snap.  If you’re creative with folding you could probably squeeze it out of less than 2 yards, depending on your size.  In fact, I messed up the stripe matching and neckline (the triple straight stitch looked like crap on the striped fabric) so I scrapped my first try and cut new front and back pieces and still had fabric left over.

I definitely recommend the pattern, especially for beginners.  I’m sure for more experienced sewers there are less expensive options but since I’ll have used it at least 3 times, I’ve gotten good use out of it.

Vogue 8379

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I’ve always loved the Diane Von Furstenberg wrap dresses and have been seeing lots of versions at various stores lately, probably due to the 40th anniversary of this iconic style. In truth, it has never been out of style.  You’ve got to admire a design with that kind of staying power.  I’ve read reviews of several total knock-off DVF inspired patterns  and decided to try Vogue 8379

A friend of mine organized a charity fundraiser with a Kentucky Derby theme.  Since it was in March, I didn’t think I’d want to wear a summery dress.  Knowing I could always use a wrap dress or two on hand in my closet, I decided to make my first version out of a more sedate fabric I bought on sale (hello, $6 dress!) with the intention of making a version out of a fun floral for the party.  Life got in the way and I only had time to make the first version.  Other than the fascinator, I ended up being boringly dressed compared to the other party-goers which was a bummer.  I was surprised at how fancy people were. It was a fun event for a great cause which is what matters though!

My dapper husband and lovely sister in law!

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Anyway, on to the dress.  Occasion aside, it’s a great dress.  I’ve had some aggravating sewing fails the past couple months which I didn’t post so this was a satisfying project.

The fabric is ITY and very stretchy.  The pattern is drafted with 2” of ease which I don’t understand in a knit pattern.  I based my size off the finished garment measurement which was at least one size below what the size chart recommends.  I was nervous because it needed to be fitted but not skin tight.  ITY, in particular, can be thin and show white in the fibers when the fabric and print is pulled too tight.  I measured out the finished bust diameter on the fabric and wrapped it around me.  This really helped to confirm my size.  Every fabric has its own stretch and that was a good double check.

I made version B with the collars and cuffs.  I may try another with a more narrow skirt but I have to say I like the movement of the wider version.  Photo below taken after turning.  Whee!

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Adjustments:

  • Graded to a larger size in the waist and hips.
  • I shortened the skirt length by 2 inches at the shorten line.  To true up the grainline, I ended up losing 1” on the back pattern piece and 1.5” on the front pattern piece for a total of 5 inches of width.
  • Next time I will add back about an inch so I can have just a little more length and a deeper hem.
  • As noted in so many reviews, the bodice is really short.  I’m short-waisted so I didn’t lengthen it but it was borderline short even on me.
  • Constructed with a combination of my sewing machine using a triple straight stitch and my serger.  I don’t have a lot of control with my serger so the collar, facing, and sleeve head were done on the sewing machine.  All the rest of the seams were on the serger.  I should have done the cuff on the sewing machine too – they ended up looking stretched out and wonky.
  • Sewed the sleeves in flat. Sleeve seam and side sewed on serger.
  • The facings pop out easily.  I tacked them at the waist and shoulders which helped but wasn’t enough.  I put a couple squares of stitch witchery between the fabric layers which solved the problem.  Stitch witchery has no stretch so I applied them in small pieces, almost like big glue dots.

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I highly recommend this pattern and will definitely make more!

This Sewing Hobby Finally Paid Off!

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Hi!  Is anyone still out there?  I know I haven’t posted in forever.  I’ve done some garment sewing (countless muslins and am almost done with an Emery dress) but haven’t completed anything.  Mostly, I’ve been busy with work and not feeling the sewing mojo.  Until the time came for new throw pillows.

Over the past few months there’s been a lot of talk on sewing blogs about whether sewing saves you money.  For garments, my opinion is mostly “no”.  There’s just too much cheap, disposable fashion out there. If your skills are such that you can sew high quality construction with good fit and nice fabrics, then it’s good value to sew your own and have it fit like a glove (compared to high end RTW).  I will take a long time to get to that level.  I have a lot of thoughts on this topic – maybe a blog post for later.

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I know this picture is odd – the sofas are so long I couldn’t get both in the same shot downstairs

Anyway, home decor is one area I’m guessing most people would save money by sewing for themselves.  I know I did.  We got two new sofas this spring.  Both are super long –102” – and a basic taupe color.  I bought them thinking how easy it would be to sew and change pillows whenever I felt like it.  Ha.  So foolish. This simple throw pillow idea turned into quite the project.  The problem is the quantity of pillows needed.  You can see in the picture that the room and sofas are big – lots of pillows and multiple fabrics needed!  I wanted at least four relatively large pillows for each sofa made from at 3-4 fabrics that complemented each other.  They had to be cool colors to match our trim/sofa/walls, the brown had to be super dark like our rug, and no gold!  (We just got rid of two gold sofas and I was sick of it!)  I also wanted bold color or graphic prints – nothing fussy or traditional.  All those requirements combined meant I couldn’t find enough coordinating options at Target or Pottery Barn or wherever.  I do have some additional pillows from Target and Home Goods – they’re just not pictured here.  Pillows everywhere!

After much frustrating fabric shopping online and an overwhelming fabric showroom, I stopped by Calico Corners to get some ideas.  Out of all their books and my ridiculous criteria, I only found a few sets of fabrics I liked together. I would find two here or two there but I needed four that worked together.  Since I love blue and green, I went that route.  We planned out a few striped, a few patterned, and a bunch of solids with trim.  The fabrics were pricey so I requested quotes for fully completed pillows covers and the fabric alone.  I already had the pillow forms.  The cost for 10 pillows with trim and welting? $1200!!!  I about died.

So, that meant I was sewing.  I ordered the striped velvet and teal Moroccan patterned yardage from them and called it a day.  I special ordered the solid colors at Joann while on sale with a friends and family coupon.  I had to live without the fringe trim and make my own welting.  All in all, I probably saved at least $800!!  Actually, I never would’ve paid that quote even if I couldn’t sew.  But, it’s pretty cool to get similar pillows for much, much, much less.  I should’ve had more savings but I ordered too much fabric.

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Figuring out the fabric needed was tough due to the welting cord.  I knew I needed to make bias strips.  But how much fabric for the dozens of yards of cord?  When the fabric is $40-$50 a yard, you want to be right!  I finally found a link on McCall’s quilting site that was wonderful.  It tells you how much fabric is needed depending on the width of the strip and the length required.  It provides directions and a video for making continuous bias strips from a piece of square fabric. Check it out – it’s very helpful: Continuous Bias

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I made several mistakes but now that I’m farther away from it, it’s not worth even writing about.  There are some tips I learned worth noting:

The construction wasn’t hard.  It was time consuming because I had to hand sew both sides of ten zippers – my sides never matched up properly using the machine and invisible zipper foot.

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When making the welt cord, cut the bias strip wider than you think you’ll need.  Most tutorials tell you to cut the width equal to the diameter of the cord plus twice the seam allowance.  That would work with thinner fabrics but not upholstery weight.  You can always trim it back but sewing along the cord with a too-small seam allowance is a PAIN. Add an extra 1/4”.

I had better luck cutting the fabric the size of my pillow form.  Some tutorials will tell you to cut it 1/2” -1” larger than the form.  I think that would be too loose, especially for down inserts. It will be even smaller once it’s sewn but that’s ok (mine was an inch smaller after 1/2 SA on each side.)  You want it to be stuffed in there.  For a couple pillows, (the ones without the welt) I went back and made them even tighter.

I bought a book which was helpful and will be even better if I try more ambitious styles.  Sew Sensational: Pillows

The first covers I sewed were made from the solid brown fabric.  I figured my mistakes wouldn’t be as visible.  It was a good move.  I learned to put the zipper and the cord join on the same side – that way you can hide them both based on how you position the pillows. Once I had a couple covers under my belt I knew the pitfalls and did the remaining sets assembly line style.

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Take time thinking about which sides you want to match and on which sides you want the zipper. If there are stripes, you’ll have to match your zipper with one color and plan your cutting around that.

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Overall, I’m happy with how they turned out. I finally have some color in the family room.   My stripe and pattern matching was so-so and really good, depending on the pillow.  I can live with that.  My corners aren’t quite sharp on the welted pillows but that won’t keep me up at night either.  I can rest easy thinking of the crazy money I didn’t spend on custom pillows and feel satisfied I at last made something for the house.

Sewaholic Saltspring

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The days are shorter, the evenings are cooler, school has started and Saturdays are for football.  Fall is definitely here.  So what do I do?  Sew my first sundress of the summer.  What?  Well, I’m glad I did.  I love it.  I wore it today, probably the last hot day of the year, and it has all the elements of something to wear everyday in the summer.  It’s adjustable with the straps, has pockets, and is comfortable and cool.  I just wish I had the pattern before I went on vacation – I would have made a bunch!

I picked up the Sewaholic Saltspring at a cute shop in Columbus, Sew to Speak.  They’re my local source for Sewaholic patterns especially when I get an idea in my head and just have to start that day –no waiting for shipping from Canada.

This is my third Sewaholic pattern and like the others (Renfrew and Cambie) it didn’t disappoint.  Pretty yet wearable style with good instructions.  They posted a sewalong and I sewed with my ipad right next to my sewing machine.  It was such a great way to go through the project. 

There are things I really like about the dress and some I would change next time (and I anticipate making several versions next summer.)IMG_3505_edited-1web

The blousy bodice is not something you have to fiddle with all day.  It is cleverly designed – the outer layer is longer than the lining so when you sew the edges together the blousiness (made up word, I know) doesn’t move or require a belt.IMG_5703_edited-1web

I’m not crazy about the split in the back.  Even if I had put in a zipper and the sizing was good for me (more on that later) it looks unfinished.  The picture above is just pinned together where the zipper should be but you can get the idea.  The elastic at the waist would pull the sides closer and the top couple inches are stitched down but it would show your lining as you moved.  I didn’t realize it was like that until construction.

It was at this stage I could finally try on the bodice.  It was way too big.  By this time, I couldn’t take it in on the sides without taking apart all my work; the only place I could adjust was the center back. So, I sewed the center back together but in order to catch both sides (the outer flappy parts) I had to take it in quite a bit –at least an inch.  It fits fine but the back doesn’t lie well.  IMG_3592_edited-1web

I also wish the pattern included directions for a skirt lining.  This dress is perfect for light airy fabric. But, if the fabric is like my voile, it’s too sheer to wear in bright sunlight without a lining.  Sewaholic was smart, though, and posted a work-around on their blog.  The straps almost sent me over the edge.  I ended up cutting new straps after some mishaps turning the first two right side out.  With this fabric I needed more room when turning so I would recommend smaller seam allowances.  In fact, I think I’ll try non-tie straps next time.

Sizing – I fell between sizes for the bodice so I cut the 10 thinking I could take it in later.  I didn’t think through the order of construction  – it doesn’t allow for that.   It was huge! After taking in the back I ended up right about the size 8. Next time I’ll cut the smaller size.  That way, rather than the dress only being reduced in back, it’ll be more proportional.  I also don’t see the need for a zipper so I’ll just cut front and back on the fold.  The dress is somewhat short.  I wasn’t able to get the 1” hem.  I just serged the bottom and folded it up.IMG_3571_edited-1web

Even with those tweaks, I really like the dress and will definitely make more for next summer.  I would love to try the maxi version.

Infinity Scarf

IMG_3200_edited-1webThere are approximately 10,000 infinity scarf tutorials in the internet.  Now there’s 10,001!  There’s a good reason.  It’s the easiest project ever.  If you have a sewing machine, you can make one.  Two yards of fabric makes two scarves which can be worn doubled or tripled. It could make three scarves if you like them more narrow.  I may try that next.

I was procrastinating starting a knit dress and wanted to make something quick and easy.  When I realized a girlfriend’s birthday party was Saturday, I figured it would be a cute handmade addition to her gift.

Fabric choice is important.  I used cotton voile for all the examples below and it works well.  A gauze would be pretty.  A printed or striped knit would be great too.  I just didn’t have either of those in my stash and once I got the idea in my head I wanted to try it right then.  The curse of the impatient, I guess.  Any woven thicker than a voile would look a little too chunky.  It’s a great way to use fabrics you love but wouldn’t wear as a garment.  The scarves look more bulky here than when they’re actually worn.

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A cool alternative would be to make it out of two coordinating fabrics – it would look very cool once twisted around your neck.  I didn’t have that so below is a simple version.

Wanna learn how?  Here goes:

IMG_3203_edited-1webCut the fabric width in half (cut parallel to the selvage).  You could even cut it in thirds.  Your scarf will be half the width of each cut piece.  In my example, my fabric is 54” wide.  I cut one piece 23” x wide since that was the easiest way to mark the fabric with my ruler.  The remainder was 31”.  Whatever the width you choose, make sure that measurement is uniform the entire length.  That will be important later.  Just trim it up if not.  Square off the ends.

 

IMG_3205_edited-1webTake one of your strips and fold it in half right sides together.  Pin along the edge.  If you have a visible selvage, pin so that side is on top.

 

IMG_3210_edited-1webStitch the entire length of the piece.  I use the selvage as a guide to ensure it doesn’t show through.  Otherwise, I would use about 1/2” or 3/8” seam. (Can you tell this doesn’t have to be exact?)

 

IMG_3215_edited-1webPress the seam flat and then press the seam allowance open.

Turn the “tube” you just created right side out.

Fold that tube in half with the seam lines together.

 

IMG_3217_edited-1webPin the sides with the seam right sides together.  Only pin the inner layers.  Leave the other sides free. 

 

 

IMG_3221_edited-1webKeep pinning with the raw edges lined up as far as you can.  You won’t be able to pin the whole way around.

 

 

IMG_3225_edited-1webStitch along the edge as far as you can.  You’re sewing the loop closed so you won’t be able to stitch this all the way around. 

 

IMG_3229_edited-1webTurn the loop right side out.

 

 

IMG_3230_edited-1webLine up the remaining opening. Press a fold along the seam line to guide your hand stitches (I just finger press. Lazy.)

Stitch closed. I’m not showing that – my hand stitching is atrocious!

Press along the hand stitching.

Admire your new scarf! 

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Burda 7198

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So, what do you do when you have a rare 4-day weekend but your highly anticipated pool time gets rained out? Sew a shirt, I guess!  This pattern seemed to be a pretty versatile, casual style that could work well with various prints.  Also, in the summer I like to have the option of layers without resorting to a coat.

The pattern is Burda 7198 and made from a cotton voile which is perfect. The fabric is from Amy Butler’s Soul Blossoms line. What wonderful fabric! It made the cheap voile I used for my muslin feel like burlap! Granted, it was 3 times the cost on sale but it was so comfortable I bought more prints when my local shop had it 50% off (!)yesterday.

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My first run was made from bright pink cotton voile I ordered on sale.  It was a great deal at 50% off (only $2.50/yard!) so I figured if it didn’t work, it was no more expensive than muslin and if it did work, I would have a second blouse.  I’m so glad I did a muslin – I made a few changes based on it and it helped me figure out how to do the placket.  I seem to have issues with plackets!

Changes I made:

  • I didn’t add the horizontal dart in the back.  It’s so strange.  It was across the upper back of the shirt and served no purpose except a weird design feature.  I didn’t know it was there until I looked at the pattern piece since it’s not on the line drawing.  Ignored on both the muslin and blouse.IMG_3022_edited-1web
  • Sizing – I fell between the pattern sizes 12 and 14 for the bust and 14 and 16 for waist and hip.  I made a 12 throughout.  It would have been huge if I followed their sizing!
  • Removed the center back seam on the final blouse.  It probably would be useful for fitting if you need it but since it was a straight line I just subtracted the seam allowance and cut it on the fold – no need to match the print that way!  Also, with the relatively sheer fabrics I was using, the seam was very obvious.  So much so that even though my pink version fits, I don’t know that I’ll wear it.
  • Shortened the upper portion of the blouse 1.5”.  This pattern has an upper and lower shorten/lengthen line which was so helpful.  My measurements indicated 2” but I thought that was too much.  In hindsight I should have only raised it about 3/4”. I think the top’s proportions look a bit off.
  • I debated whether to add the godets on the side for the 2nd version.  I ended up keeping them because they give some shape even if they do stick out a bit.

The neckline finish is a bit odd but looks nice from the outside (especially on solid colors).  The bias piece isn’t a binding in the traditional sense.  Rather, it basically covers the folded down raw edges of the neck on the bottom and adds a design feature at the top.  You’re covering the seam more than enclosing it.  That’s assuming I did it correctly. I wonder if I did it wrong because I don’t see how this little strip of fabric will prevent the neckline from fraying – it’s still somewhat exposed underneath. I wonder if I was supposed to put it under the folded neckline. Even if not, I think I’ll try that next time.

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All in all, I like it and may make another version down the road since it’s such a versatile style.  My only issue besides raising the waist too much are the seven buttonholes.  My machine does a crap job.  I did multiple practice button holes but on the first ‘real’ one the machine got stuck and sewed a huge knot/ball of thread and pulled a hole in the fabric.  It was impossible to remove the thread without making the hole bigger. As it is, I’m hoping some fray check with prevent the hole from getting worse.  The rest went in fine but look lame –the second side is half as dense as the first.  It’s so bad that in the future I’ll probably find a local tailor and see if they can sew my buttonholes.  You can see below the one on the right where there’s a hole over a big thread knot and the normal buttonhole on the left where one side is good and the other is no more than a zig zag stitch.

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Next time I may narrow the sleeves a bit.  IMG_3016_edited-1web

Looks like today may be rained out again. What’s next? I made a bodice muslin for a maxi dress last week but have been hesitant to start the project since the challis I’m using needs a lining.  I have no clue how to insert one with a side zipper and tank style.  Maybe I’ll try a little knit dress.  I need some of those and no lining needed.

Enjoy the rest of your weekend!